Pinot Noir

There is no more controversial wine than Pinot Noir. Those who dismiss it say it is light and thin, words which prompted one French producer to respond, "Of course my wine is light; it's made from Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir makes light wine. If you don't like it, I suggest the Rhone Valley. I hear the wines are darker there." For those who embrace it, it is the vinous Holy Grail, intriguing in its compelling aromas of spices, flowers and fruits, seductive with silky, velvety textured flavors that can range from subtle to intense, often possessing a lacy quality, or as one taster described it, "transparency." Few American Pinot Noirs of the early '70s possessed these qualities. More often they were described as being weedy and stemmy, as well as being overipe and raisiny. Tannins in these wines were often out of balance and fruit was dry and astringent.

In the Millennium, America has shown itself more than capable of producing world-class Pinot Noir in growing regions ranging from Oregon's Willamette Valley to California's Russian River Valley. This dramatic transformation from the dismal wines of the '70s to the quality of wines currently being produced by wineries like Oregon's Ken Wright, the Russian River Valley's Williams & Seylem, and Gary Farrell, is one of the greater accomplishments in American winemaking and viticulture.

 

California Pinot Noir

Twenty years ago, California Pinot Noir was slumbering somewhat fitfully. In the middle seventies, a wine reviewer noted that "truly fine California Pinots can be numbered on one hand...the thin, pallid bottles are outnumbered by the merely dull."

For many years, American Pinot Noir producers viewed their Burgundian counterparts with what might be referred to as Pinot envy. In the '70s, as California was beginning to leave its mark on the wine world with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Pinot Noir lagged far behind in gaining the respect of serious oenophiles. With the exception of wines coming from Joseph Swan, Chalone, and Hanzell, most American producers were unable to achieve consistency in their vinification of this fickle varietal. Even the late Andre Tchelistcheff, the father of American winemaking, felt he was never able to duplicate the success he had with the 1946 and '47 Pinot Noirs he made at Beaulieu Vineyards.  Identifying the best areas to properly ripen this cool climate grape was one of the reasons for the drastic improvement.

 

Carneros:

The moderate climate and proximity to San Francisco attracted grape growers to Carneros as early as the 1850's. In 1983, the area became one of the first American Viticultural Areas (AVA). Since then, Carneros has become synonymous with fine Pinot Noir from California.  Carneros pinots can be generally described as having “spicy-cherry” aromatics.

 

Santa Barbara/ Santa Ynez:

Being at the same latitude as Southern Algeria, one wouldn’t look at this area as being a haven for cool weather varieties like chardonnay and pinot noir, but the West to East direction of the valleys let’s the cool Pacific do it’s thing on moderating the temperatures --- parts of this area are actually some of the coolest growing regions in California! 

Beginning in the late 70’s, Richard Sanford planted the now famous Sanford & Benedict Vineyard and the rest is history.  The area is now a who’s-who of great pinot producers:  Au Bon Climat, Sanford, Babcock, Melville and Fiddlehead to name a few.

Santa Barbara is known for it’s big, rich styles:  lot’s of berry but with the tell-tale leather/tobacco nuances that pinot freaks enjoy.

 

Russian River

Sonoma County's Russian River Valley has proven to be one of the best of these Pinot Noir friendly growing areas; its cool, fog influenced climate and well-drained, gravelly soils are well-suited for the Burgundian varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. One of the early pioneers in Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley was the late Joseph Swan, who began producing wine from his vineyards surrounding his Forestville winery in the early '70s. Son-in-law Rod Berglund carries on the winemaking tradition, crafting lovely, rich, berry and spice laden wine from one of the area's older Pinot Noir vineyards. In the late '70s, Tom Dehlinger and Cecil Deloach released the first Pinot Noirs from their estate vineyards in this area.

The real buzz in this area began in the early '80s, first with the Chardonnays of Kistler and Pinot Noirs of a couple of guys named Burt and Ed under the label Hacienda Del Rio. After facing possible litigation from a winery already using a similar name, Burt and Ed opted to use their last names instead, and Williams & Seylem was born. They sourced fruit from low yielding vineyards, eschewed filtration of their wines, and used French oak barrels for aging. Their Pinots from Rochioli Vineyard, Allen Vineyard, and the Olivet Lane Vineyard quickly achieved cult-like status as some of the best in the state. In the late '90s, Williams & Seylem was sold, but new winemaker Bob Cabral doesn't seem to have missed a beat as the new releases are as highly regarded as those of his predecessors. Superstar winemaker Gary Farrell also began producing Pinots here in the early '80s, and his Rochioli and Allen Vineyard Pinots are as rich and as hard to get as the Williams & Seylem offerings.

 

Sonoma Coast

Sonoma Coast is the “hot new kid on the block”.  The wine world is looking here for the next place for the “cool weather variety” superstars.  The Sonoma Coast Appellation is a large and, quite frankly, rather poorly defined Appellation. As it stands now, vineyard from Highway 101 near the Marin County border to the ocean ridges north of Jenner near Mendocino County all fall within the Sonoma Coast Appellation. This type of geographical spread can lead to wines of

varying character and quality. To our tastes, wines from the Sonoma Coast should show a combination of woodsy, earthy complexity buffered up by strong, underlying fruit flavors. This combination makes the best examples more complex than your stereotypical California Pinot Noir but also more fruit intense than many of the wines from Oregon.

 

Pinot Envy:  Food Pairings:

 

 

Pinot Gris:  A chardonnay alternative in Oregon, especially with oilier fish like salmon ... Pinot Gris really enhances salmon, because the wine's acidity balances against the oily richness of the fish, and its broad, complex fruit flavors(reminiscent of pears, peaches and citrus) add a flavorful, slightly spicy nuance to the unmistakable taste of the salmon's flesh. Its mild aroma never intrudes. Pinot Gris nicely enhances other meaty types of fish, such as ahi, sturgeon, halibut, and swordfish. It is also recommended for crab, shrimp, and all kinds of shellfish, especially fresh, raw oysters. Another enjoyable match  has Pinot Gris paired with sliced ripe tomato and fennel drizzled with lemon and olive oil, liberally sprinkled with freshly cracked black pepper. 

 

Pinot Blanc:  Oregonians drink Pinot Blanc like Pinot Gris --- instead of chardonnay and pair it with native seafood:  salmon, crab, oysters.  White meats work well (veal, pork and chicken).  It’s lighter - fruitier style makes it work better (than chardonnay) with spicy/asian fare.

 

Pinot Noir:  Pinot Noir is a personal favorite.  Probably the most versatile red wine with different food pairings... if not the most versatile food wine --- period.  Generally, its a high acid, low tannin, fruity red wine which opens it up to numerous dishes: lean meats, game, stews (French Soul Food).  Tomato sauces (normally a “food enemy”) work well.  In it’s lighter, less tannic style:  an ideal red wine for fish...especially the oilier types:  ahi and salmon.  Once tannins appear:  avoid fish.

 

Pinot Envy:  The Wines:

#4811 Ken Wright Pinot Blanc "Freedom Hill", Willamette Valley, Oregon 2004 $17.00/Bottle

A white mutation of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris ... pinot blanc shares many features of chardonnay --- call it “unchard”....crisp, with hints of citrus, green apple and pear...from the master of "site-specific" wines ---Ken Wright --- who is dedicated to connecting pinot to place.  Nobody is more meticulous in the vineyard. His wines show a great "purity of fruit.  

 

#1701 Chehalem Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2005  $15.50/Bottle

Known as the “Great White Hope” in Oregon, pinot gris is quickly replacing chardonnay as the #1 white variety.  Chehalem is a partnership joining 3 of Oregon’s top vineyards owned by Harry Peterson-Nedry and Bill Stoller.  Considered Oregon’s best producer of pinot gris.  This Gris is aged and fermented in stainless steel for a crisp-racy mouthfeel and has a classic Alsatian wet stone, mineral character.  Oregonians pair pinot gris with salmon, but it nicely enhances other meaty types of fish, such as sturgeon, halibut, and swordfish. It is also recommended for crab, shrimp, and all kinds of shellfish, especially fresh, raw oysters. 

 

#39707 Babcock "Grand Cuvee" Pinot Noir "Santa Rita Hills" 2004 6/750 $23.25/Bottle

A recent trip to California’s Central Coast introduced us to Bryan Babcock, a more passionate & intense winemaker you’d be hard pressed to find.  His knowledge of the Santa Ynez Valley is unparalleled --- One of California’s most Southerly (yet coldest) grape growing regions,  with it’s West to East configuration allowing the Pacific Ocean’s cooling fog to moderate temperatures.  Starting in the western part is one of the newest AVA’s (Santa Rita Hills).  This maritime area with it’s sandy soils is home to the great pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards (Mount Carmel and Cargasacchi).  Moving eastward,  temperatures increase quickly (1 degree for every mile traveled!).  Although syrah works well throughout the Valley, it’s arguably at its best in this central area ( Foxen Canyon).  His relentless experimentation, his willingness to explore the possibilities with so many grape varieties, and his “aesthetic” are a world apart from the usual American approach to winemaking.  Since 1996 the winery has been fine tuning a Bordeaux-styled red blend called FATHOM. Once Cabernet Franc based, with the development of the warmer "Happy Canyon" area of the eastern Santa Ynez Valley, the program has been "blown wide open" to include a greater percentage of Merlot (67%), Cabernet Sauvignon and possibly other Bordeaux varietals. Babcock has also helped to spearhead the Italian and Spanish varietal evolution in Santa Barbara County. Experiments continue with unheralded varieties such as Pigñolo of Italian origin and Loureiro from Spain, in an effort to search out those of potential nobility. "I believe that some of these varieties will be California's next frontier in winemaking," says Bryan. 

Pinot Noir “Grand Cuvee” ’04:  Mainly Estate fruit, with Cargasacchi and Mt. Carmel Vineyards added to the blend.  Classic Santa Rita Hills:  red fruit, with earth and mocha components, rich in the mouth.  35-40% new barrels.

 

#6881 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2004 6/750 $39/Bottle

New project from former Rex Hill winemaker:  Lynn Penner-Ash.   Part of Oregon's latest wave of new wineries, she couldn’t resist the temptation to produce her own wine --- and has just moved into her "state-of-the-art", 100% gravity facility next to Tony Soter, Beaux Freres, etc.  Her first couple of vintages have been phenomenal!  A follow up to her high scoring 2003 (93 Points “Highly Recommended” --- Wine Spectator 5/15/05.).  Packs an amazing amount of dense flavor into a lithe, elegant package, layering cherry, boysenberry and exotic spice character which extends into a long, long finish. Has all it needs to develop beautifully. Drink now through 2015. 2,500 cases made.

                                                                         

#6847 Merry Edwards "Russian River" 2004 12/750 $38/Bottle

A woman --- who almost single handedly paved the way for the women winemakers  of today --- her resumé reads like a who’s-who of the 1970’s and 1980’s.  With the staunch support of her mentor, Dr. Maynard Amerine, she began her career when consulting winemaker Richard Graf and the owners of Mount Eden Vineyards selected Merry to be their winemaker in February 1974. She made three vintages while at Mount Eden and earned a reputation as a rising star in the California wine industry. In summer, 1977 Sandra McIver hired Merry to help build Matanzas Creek Winery from scratch. Merry produced seven stellar vintages at Matanzas Creek, catapulting the brand to national prominence.  While at Matanzas Creek, she began taking trips to France to study clones.  The importance of clones was not recognized in California at the time; vintners and farmers alike considered Merry’s focus heretical. “Joe Swan, a primary mentor for me, was one of few who recognized the importance of clones. Joe and Dr. Harold Olmo of U.C. Davis encouraged my research,” Merry says. She planted seven clones in Matanzas Creek’s Chardonnay vineyard. Harvesting and segregating the fruit in barrel trials, Merry’s pioneer work forever changed the California wine industry. In 1981 Merry presented the first clonal seminar ever offered at U. C. Davis, where she substantiated clonal significance to skeptical vintners and growers.  Merry’s ongoing consulting business became her full time occupation. Her esteemed reputation and expertise defined a new breed of winemaker: the troubleshooting superstar whose name enhances the reputation of her client’s brand. Today she continues to advise a few select wineries. The most exciting and absorbing chapter of Merry's professional career is her present passion. In 1997 she co-founded Meredith Vineyard Estate Inc., a business venture allowing her to produce Merry Edwards Wines from select Pinot Noir grapes in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast, including, for the first time, her own, Meredith Estate and Coopersmith vineyards.

The 2004 comes from three distinguished and unique vineyards - Klopp Ranch, Olivet Lane Vineyard and her own Meredith Vineyard - provided the grapes for this Russian River Pinot Noir. Blended together, the fruit from these properties offers an irresistible fusion of earthiness, dark succulent fruit and sweet oak. Selecting complementary barrel styles for each vineyard, she aged the wine for ten months in fifty percent new French oak, crafted by the finest cooperages in France.  Each element - fruit, oak, acid, and tannin - is integrated into a round, sultry Pinot Noir with clear aging potential. The 2004 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is a tribute to the grapes from the region and the oak barrels from France that underscore the deep dark fruitiness of this seductive wine.

 

Siduri "Gary's Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands 2004 12/750 $34.85/Bottle

The hot-new-kid-on-the-block --- the "darling of the wine press."  Siduri makes pinot noir from some of the West Coast's top sites.  "Gary's Vineyard" is one of the greatest sites --- in Monterey County's up and coming Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.  Dark, rich, intense and concentrated, with plush blueberry, wild berry and black cherry fruit that's well-focused, deep and persistent. Shows off plenty of rich tannic strength, but in the end it's the fruit that shines through. Drink now through 2009. 508 cases made.

 

 

Aloha,

A hui hou!

Alan